Two decades on, L'Oréal's China lab moves from adapting to leading

Since 2005, L'Oréal's China Research and Innovation Center has evolved from adapting global technologies to driving breakthroughs, reflecting China's growing role in beauty innovation.

by Zhou Fangying

Since its establishment in Shanghai in 2005, L'Oréal's China Research and Innovation Center has grown into the group’s largest facility in Asia-Pacific, covering the full spectrum of beauty product development.

Now with around 400 researchers, the center has shifted from adapting global technologies to driving independent innovation, increasingly contributing to L'Oréal's global markets.

According to Xavier Blin, director of the center, the team has maintained a focus on consumer-centered research while expanding from traditional chemistry into biotechnology, beauty tech, and digitalization.

Xavier Blin, China Research and Innovation Director at L'Oréal.

Over the past two decades, the center has conducted about 35 large-scale studies on Chinese skin and hair, testing more than 100,000 consumers annually, and has developed over 300 new formulas. It also introduced a skin model tailored to Chinese consumers, now widely used in efficacy and safety assessments, including post-aesthetic care research.

In 2024, L'Oréal filed 372 patents in China, including 81 invention patents.

The company has strengthened local collaborations, including a minority investment in biotech firm Veminsyn to co-develop bioactive ingredients and promote low-carbon biomanufacturing. It also launched a personalized skincare device, receiving China's first license for on-site customized cosmetic production.

L'Oréal said China's demanding consumers have sharpened its R&D capabilities, with several China-developed products entering international markets, reflecting the growing link between local success and global competitiveness.

Shanghai's innovation environment remains a key advantage, supported by partnerships with universities, hospitals, and startups.

Looking ahead, L'Oréal plans to expand its Green Sciences strategy in China, focusing on replacing petrochemical ingredients with plant-based alternatives and reducing carbon emissions. Initiatives include solar-powered offices and energy-efficient devices, part of its broader sustainability push.

As it marks 20 years, L'Oréal's China center highlights the country's rising influence in global beauty and scientific research.