New launches and bold pivots by homegrown brands mark CBE Shanghai

China's largest beauty trade fair signals a strategic shift as local brands double down on cleansing products, functional skincare, and tech-infused beauty tools.

by Zhou Fangying

The 29th China Beauty Expo (CBE), held from May 12 to 14 at the Shanghai New International Expo Center, brought together over 3,200 companies from more than 40 countries and regions, covering 119 sub-categories and over 10000 brands.

Positioned as a major event under Shanghai’s "First Launch" campaign, the 2025 CBE carried the theme "Sharing of Global Resources." The event served as a launchpad for over 80,000 new beauty products and showcased emerging trends across skincare, cosmetics, and personal care.

Among the most notable developments was the surge of domestic beauty brands entering the cleansing segment. Traditionally known for makeup tools, AMORTALS introduced its wash-and-care sub-brand Puljim at CBE, debuting a new line of scented body washes designed for oily and acne-prone skin. Puljim leverages AMORTALS’s existing brand equity while highlighting affordability and fragrance innovation.

Long-established local cleansing brands also sought to refresh their image. Lafang partnered with China’s national diving team and adopted the slogan "Champion's Choice" to reassert its identity as a homegrown brand. Similarly, Slek engaged attendees with performances and social media activations, tapping nostalgia to reconnect with consumers after returning to Chinese ownership.

Proya, the first domestic beauty company to surpass 10 billion yuan in annual revenue, made its CBE debut for Awaken Seeds, its functional haircare brand launched in 2024. The line targets scalp microbiome balance and was developed in collaboration with universities including Shanghai Jiao Tong. Also in 2024, skincare groups like FREDA introduced new cleansing brands such as Jimu, also focused on scalp health.

Functional skincare remained a key focus. Sheet mask leader Voolga presented its latest acne-care ampoules, expanding its product matrix beyond its core category. Quadha, owned by hyaluronic acid giant Bloomage Biotech, unveiled an upgraded version of its anti-aging oil-in-ampoule product at the show, featuring a proprietary suspension technology.

Chando, a 20-year-old mass beauty brand, showcased its R&D-driven ingredient "Cymoenzyme," extracted from Himalayan yeast. Its anti-aging serum line was expanded with supporting products and positioned through a science-meets-nature narrative.

Beauty tech also gained ground. Health-focused brand Yangshengtang, known for its waterless skincare concept using birch sap, launched a second-generation misting facial device designed to boost essence absorption. The first version was never widely sold, but the company plans to release the upgrade later this year.

In color cosmetics, Colorkey leveraged its CBE booth to preview a new collaboration themed around a cartoon capybara, complete with lip tints, setting sprays, and eye shadow palettes. The playful design ties into its 618 e-commerce promotions.

Some brands used the expo to boost distribution deals. Many prominently displayed WeChat contacts for regional sales teams. Proximity to the 618 shopping festival also prompted many exhibitors to unveil new lines early, aiming to build consumer interest both online and offline.