BY FAR loses grip in China as stores close and debts rise

Once a trending handbag label, the Bulgarian brand's last store in China is set to close, with its local operator facing mounting legal and cash flow problems.

by Zhu Yongling

BY FAR, a Bulgarian handbag brand that once enjoyed viral popularity in China, is nearing the end of its offline retail presence in the country. Its last remaining store, located at Beijing’s China World Mall, is expected to close in mid-May, marking the brand’s full withdrawal from China’s physical retail market outside of third-party channels.

The brand’s China operator, Baifang (Shanghai) Trading Co., has been listed in multiple legal disputes. As of April 15, public records show the company has accumulated enforcement orders totaling 5.31 million yuan (US$730,000) this year alone, including a consumption restriction order on its legal representative and co-founder Sabina Petrova Gyosheva.

Court filings indicate Baifang has been embroiled in contract and labor disputes, including a rental case involving Shanghai’s Zhangyuan redevelopment project. BY FAR opened its first Asia flagship in Zhangyuan in late 2022, but the store quietly closed within a year.

Financial difficulties have already affected customer experiences. Some consumers have reported refund issues on BY FAR’s Tmall flagship store, with customer service citing technical problems and offering offline refunds via bank transfer. However, there have been conflicting statements between the brand’s customer service and Tmall’s platform support regarding the status of the store’s security deposit, adding to buyer concerns.

BY FAR did not respond to Jiemian News' emailed inquiries by publication time.

BY FAR’s retreat has been gradual. After launching in Zhangyuan, the company opened boutiques in several high-end malls across cities including Shanghai, Beijing, Nanjing and Suzhou, but all except the Beijing location have since shut down.

The brand’s online presence has also dwindled. Its WeChat mini-program and JD.com flagship store are no longer active, while its official accounts on Chinese social media platforms have not updated since early 2024. Its global Instagram account has remained inactive since February, suggesting broader challenges beyond the China market.

Founded in 2016, BY FAR rose to fame around 2020 with its signature baguette bags and strong social media marketing. However, it struggled to build sustained brand equity beyond a few viral products. As fashion trends shifted and consumer preferences became more value-driven, the brand’s positioning between luxury and mass-market proved difficult to sustain.

High operating costs from opening self-run stores in premium locations further strained the company’s resources, leaving limited room for adjustment.

Even if BY FAR attempts a comeback, the landscape has become more competitive. Coach and other established players continue to invest heavily to retain share, while local Chinese brands like Songmont, Grotto and PECO are gaining ground by leveraging better knowledge of domestic platforms and consumer habits.

For BY FAR, the road to revival in China is likely to be steeper than before.